Today was a sweet day! At first I was feeling a little hard-done-by because I had a job interview at Tesco (it went very well thanks) while everyone else ventured off into the sunny and crisp springtime conditions with high hopes to do daring deeds. Still keen to get something out of the day I hitched my way to the Quarries with this guy, who happened to be a friend of John Redheads (he gave me some interesting advice, something about letting go of the competitive side of climbing and being a part of the moment and climb to be free... or something along those lines). So, keen to merge with the Earth's energy, and equipped with my faithful shunt I went to find some people to burn off, but I didn't find anyone so had a bash at the Medium on seamstress slab instead.
Abbing down, it was obvious where the crux was. The bit with no holds on. But after some toil, a little rest and some cheeky inspiration I stumbled across the solution to the stopper move; my foot popped but I boned them crimps like I did yo' mama, and found my leg had swung into a really unlikely flagging position, finally in balance to do the obligatory no-handed one-legged-squat rockover on an annoying foothold to reach the 'cornflakes' and beyond. So I lead that with a belay and some helpful support from Tombo and Jezer (cheers guys! And super effort from Tom to lead Slug Club Special and Kubla Kahn back to back). Then I headed down with Al n Laura to the Pass and boshed out the tourist start to Jerry's Roof. It was nice to do it in front of the post-work WAD crew, consisting of Caff, Ioan, Jim and some other crusher doin Mr. Fantastic (cheers to you guys too for encouragement).
It feels like I might have gone up to the next plateau on the proverbial graph. It's hard to guage performance sometimes - there's a lot of variability if your going on what grade your climbing, and I imagine muscle memory plays a big part if you're repeating problems you've done before. But intrinsically I can tell that I'm stronger, more controlled in my movement, and my body feels good n tensiony. I still can't do a full one-armer though, so bst gt 2 d indy.
For lunch today I had pitta and humus, a pear, a penguin and 500ml bottle of lucozade. I think that helped.